3.II.37C

Waves | Part II, 2007

Waves propagating in a slowly-varying medium satisfy the local dispersion relation

ω=Ω(k,x,t)\omega=\Omega(\mathbf{k}, \mathbf{x}, t)

in the standard notation. Give a brief derivation of the ray-tracing equations for such waves; a formal justification is not required.

An ocean occupies the region x>0,<y<x>0, \quad-\infty<y<\infty. Water waves are incident on a beach near x=0x=0. The undisturbed water depth is

h(x)=αxph(x)=\alpha x^{p}

with α\alpha a small positive constant and pp positive. The local dispersion relation is

Ω2=gκtanh(κh) where κ2=k12+k22\Omega^{2}=g \kappa \tanh (\kappa h) \quad \text { where } \quad \kappa^{2}=k_{1}^{2}+k_{2}^{2}

and where k1,k2k_{1}, k_{2} are the wavenumber components in the x,yx, y directions. Far from the beach, the waves are planar with frequency ω\omega_{\infty} and crests making an acute angle θ\theta_{\infty} with the shoreline x=0x=0. Obtain a differential equation (in implicit form) for a ray y=y(x)y=y(x), and show that near the shore the ray satisfies

yy0Axqy-y_{0} \sim A x^{q}

where AA and qq should be found. Sketch the appearance of the wavecrests near the shoreline.

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